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In the Ulcigrai factory in Trieste, the day begins with a small white bucket filled with sourdough starter. In the evening it is transferred to a huge drum where strong flour and amber fruit peel are added, and it rises overnight.

The dough is shaped then moved by hand onto buttered metal tables to rest, and finally baked for an hour. The whole process takes three days from start to finish, and it began 150 years ago.

Imported by the inimitable Leila’s Shop and stocked here at General Store every Christmas.